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WATERMELON

If we lived further north, in the tropics, our gardens would always be full of melons. We would completely let ourselves go, fawning about in cut-off denim shorts, our long beards clutching seeds and dripping with melon juice. Unfortunately we live in a cooler, more temperate part of the country. While watermelon is a heat-loving variety that performs best in warmer climates, our commitment to them has never wavered. When battling less than ideal conditions, timing and position become critical choices to ensuring success.

Propagating and then planting young seedlings needs to be one of the final acts of warm-season planting. Given that melons won’t tolerate any cold remnants of spring, but need a substantial growing period to produce fruit, it is best to propagate seeds indoors or in a greenhouse in early spring and then transplant in a warm position once conditions suit.

PLANTING

Sow directly into the patch. The best technique is to sow the seed, at 2-3cm in depth, directly to small mounds of compost that will ensure adequate nutrition and drainage. Keep well watered up until germination. Rockmelon is not frost tolerant so it is preferable to plant when conditions are regularly above 18 degrees. If cool, propagate in seed trays, keeping indoors at night and transplant when conditions are right.

WATERING

In ground: Water daily for the first 4 weeks and 3-4 times a week in the absence of rainfall thereafter. Watering frequency may need to be elevated during hot weather.

In Pots: Water daily, in the absence of rainfall, for the entirety of its lifecycle. The best practice is to water in the morning, however on extremely warm days a late afternoon water may also be necessary.

MAINTENANCE

Integrate the patch with slow-release nitrogen-rich fertiliser and sow seeds in small mounds of compost well after the last frost. Incubate seedlings with plastic bottles when planting in cooler areas.

Give monthly applications of liquid seaweed solution and mulch to a depth of 3–5cm using pea straw, lucerne hay or sugar cane mulch.

Grow the vines vertically and attach them to a trellis that conserves ground-level real estate.

Around 14 weeks apply liquid potassium to encourage flower growth and development of fruit. The process of fruit production is an exciting, but slow journey.

Prune off the growth tips of the vine to help redirect energy into the developing fruit. Use milk spray to control any powdery mildew. The melon is ready once it can break free from the vine with minimal effort.

HARVESTING

Time until first harvest: 120+ days

How to harvest: Melons should break free from the vine with minimal effort. Like a dried up umbilical cord falling from a belly button.

TIP

Melons grow extensive plant matter, so the key to successful growth is in the preparation of the soil. Loading the patch full of nitrogen with manure and compost will ensure the plant has plenty of power to fuel its growth. We like to plant them in pots or on the corner of our veggie patch, so that the vines creep out of the garden. Likewise, melon vines can also be trained to grow vertically, but ensure that the trellis is trong enough to support the expected fruit size. Some old stockings will become very handy to stop suspended fruit from snapping off the vine.

WHEN TO PLANT

Cool/Mountainous: November - January
Temperate: October - January
Subtropical: September - February
Tropical: March - September

BEST GROWN FROM

Seed

POSITION

Full sun with plenty of room to move. Position on the edge of your growing space, allowing it to creep away from your growing space, or set up a solid trellis structure to grow vertically

DEPTH

2–3 cm

SPACING

1 m

IDEAL PH LEVEL

5.5–6.5

SOIL

Prepare your soil so that it is free draining and moderately fertile. It will tolerate a number of soil types. Add compost as part of your preparation

BEST SUITED TO

In-ground

GROWING IN POTS?

>30cm

POLLINATION

Insect pollination

CHILL FACTOR

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