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BROCCOLI

Of the brassicas – which include nutrient-dense, cold-tolerant vegetables with an appetite for nitrogen, such as cauliflower, cabbage and Brussels sprouts – broccoli is the most accessible to grow. On top of that, it is the only one that regenerates a number of times, allowing a prolonged harvesting period. You shouldn’t need any more reason to give it a shot.

But don’t fall into a false sense of security. Despite the advantages broccoli has over its brassica counterparts, it is still a favoured target of the white cabbage moth – and this is a battle all broccoli growers inevitably will have to face.

The level of warfare with the white cabbage moth is generally determined by what variety of broccoli you choose to grow. Larger heading varieties, known as calabrese broccoli, require longer growing and maintenance periods than sprouting varieties, or broccoletti. This gives the caterpillar a larger window of opportunity to strike – and more cover to hide – so bear that in mind when selecting your variety.

Broccoletti, which looks like the beautiful love child of broccoli and asparagus, is also a sacred gardening mantra that should be spoken three times aloud. Broccoletti, broccoletti, broccoletti. Now go forth and garden.

PLANTING

Propagate seeds in a seed tray and then transplant to the garden once seedlings are approximately 10-15cm tall and soil temperatures have cooled below 18 degrees celsius. Feed with fish fertiliser immediately after planting and the cover with fine insect netting.

WATERING

In ground: Water daily for the first 4 weeks and 2-3 times a week in the absence of rainfall thereafter.

In Pots: Water daily for the first 4 weeks, or until the weather becomes consistently cooler, and then cut back to watering every second day.

MAINTENANCE

When you have planted the seedlings into the patch. Use netting to deter white cabbage moth. Mulch to a depth of 3–5cm with pea straw or lucerne hay.

As hungry feeders, the broccoli plants will appreciate monthly feeds with liquid fish emulsion. Remember to give it a feed one month after planting.

After 8 weeks thin out the seedling to the required spacing.

As the heads begin to form (around 12 weeks), apply compost to ensure they get required nutrients during this critical phase.

Harvest the heads between 16–24 weeks by cutting them at the base of the stem. Leave the plants in-ground as they will generate subsequent smaller florets until they turn to flower.

HARVESTING

Time until first harvest: About 16 weeks

How to harvest: Cut heads at the base of stem, but leave plants in ground to generate subsequent florets. The secondary florets are smaller in size than the first and more akin to broccoletti.

TIP

Net the plants so that the moths cannot lay their larvae on them, and so the caterpillars cannot strike. It’s amazingly effective.

WHEN TO PLANT

Cool/Mountainous: September - April
Temperate: March - May + September - November
Subtropical: March - July
Tropical: April - July

BEST GROWN FROM

Seed – propagate in trays and transplanted into the patch

POSITION

Full sun to partial shade

DEPTH

1 cm

SPACING

50 cm

IDEAL PH LEVEL

6.0–7.0

SOIL

Use a free draining soil well integrated with compost and plenty of well rotted chook poo. Avoid planting where you have just grown nitrogen hungry warm season crops

BEST SUITED TO

Pots, in-ground

GROWING IN POTS?

30cm

POLLINATION

Not required

CHILL FACTOR

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