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CHERRY

Some of music’s finest moments have been inspired by the cherry tree – The National’s 2004 EP, for example – and without doubt some of life’s best moments have, too. The cherry is a highly sought after commodity, and growing any ornamental variety that doesn’t fruit is like visiting a football stadium when there’s no game playing. Like all deciduous fruit trees, it will require a certain number of chilling hours in order to set fruit. This means they will only grow in cool, temperate and some milder subtropical environments, but that suits us just fine.

PLANTING

Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball, but a little shallower, thereby allowing you to mound the soil to create a well for drainage purposes (when planting in ground). Thoroughly water in the hole before planting the tree and ensure it is staked – using two stakes approximately 30cm either side of the trunk (avoiding the rootzone) – to hold it perfectly upright. Mulch with 2-3cm of pea straw or lucerne hay and then water in with seaweed extract.

WATERING

In ground: Water daily for the first 2 months while establishing and then cut back to 3-4 times a week in the warm season, otherwise 1-2 times a week during the cool season in the absence of rainfall.

In Pots: Water daily while establishing and through the entirety of the warm season, otherwise 3-4 times a week during the cool season in the absence of rainfall.

MAINTENANCE

Before fruiting, feed your cherry tree with a heavy nitrogen based fertiliser, such as chook poo in very early spring.

Pruning is the key to productivity. If you are espaliering, define 3-4 horizontal limbs and then use soft twine to attach to a trellis or fence. Keep other growth in check (particularly any ‘sucker’ growth coming from the rootzone), so that the plant can focus its growing efforts on those branches. For standalone trees define 3-4 main limbs that allow for good airflow and easy harvesting access. The best practice is to keep limbs growing at a 45-60 degree angle, that allows them to hold heavy clusters of fruit.

In terms of seasonal pruning, trees should be pruned in late winter, but some smaller pruning is ok into the spring and summer if you must. Avoid pruning during autumn as this will stimulate new growth at the same time the tree should be getting ready for its winter dormancy.

HARVESTING

There’s no real need for thinning cherries for harvest. Keep whatever you can grow on the tree.
Protect from birds, pests, or little kids with netting… or maybe distract with a picture book for the kids?. Rates very high for garden snackage and this method should be used to determine ripeness.

TIP

Netting is essential to protect the fruit from aerial attackers and deter sticky fingered neighbours.

WHEN TO PLANT

Cool/Mountainous: Mar-Nov
Temperate: Mar-Nov
Subtropical: May-Oct
Tropical: Not suitable

BEST GROWN FROM

Adolescent tree

POSITION

Full sun

DEPTH

Dig hole slightly deeper than the root ball, place in the hole and cover back over until ground level is restored

SPACING

3–4 m

IDEAL PH LEVEL

6.0–6.5

SOIL

Prepare the soil so that it is free-draining and well integrated with compost and well-rotted chook manure

BEST SUITED TO

Pots, in-ground

GROWING IN POTS?

50cm x 50cm

POLLINATION

Some self-pollinate, but partners are often required to improve production

CHILL FACTOR

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