The chilli is the summer pro. It originated in the Americas and was spread across the glove by Portuguese explorer Christopher Columbus. Chilli was seen as a meaningful substitute for the pepper spice and was so valuable in the fifteenth century it had become a currency in its own right. These days it is often used as a sort of social currency, whereby friends and family try to one up each other in their chilli heat tolerance.
Chillies derive their spice from chemicals collectively known as capsaicinoids, and are measured in intensity by Scoville heat units (SHU). But in reality no one pays too much attention the the specific ratings. There are mild ones, hot ones, those that tingle the backs of your eyeballs, and the chillies that compromise your everyday survival.
Heat is key for growing chillies and they require a hot, sun-drenched space, preferably up against a heat-reflecting wall that helps to collect extra rays of warmth. Those in cooler climates often produce the best chillies in hoop houses or any other insulated environment. However, do not let its heat infatuation distract you from the basic demands of the plant. Even the toughest dues need food and water to survive and the chilli is no exception.
PLANTING
Propagate seeds in individual cells, leaving them outdoors during warm daytime conditions and then indoors at night. Transplant once the daytime temperatures are regularly surpassing 20 degrees as the plant is intolerant of frost.
WATERING
In ground: Water daily for the first 4 weeks and 3-4 times a week in the absence of rainfall thereafter. Watering frequency may need to be elevated during hot weather.
In Pots: Water daily, in the absence of rainfall, for the entirety of its lifecycle. The best practice is to water in the morning, however on extremely warm days a late afternoon water may also be necessary.
MAINTENANCE
Transplant the seedlings into the patch long after the last frosts, at half the spacing of mature plants. Mulch to 3–5cm with pea straw / lucerne hay.
As hungry feeders, the chilli will appreciate monthly feeds with liquid seaweed fertiliser.
If all plants take, thin out the seedlings to the required spacing after 8 weeks. Give away extra plants as lame ‘Christmas gifts that keep on giving’.
After 12 weeks apply liquid potassium to encourage flower growth and development of the chillies.
Begin harvesting around 16 weeks. The difference between a green and ripe chilli is about 6 weeks, so we suggest striking a balance.
At the end of the season save the plant for the next year by cutting back to the bare skeleton and leaving it dormant in-ground. This only works in more temperate areas, so in colder climates, incubation will be necessary.
HARVESTING
Time to harvest: Around 16 weeks.
How to harvest: Begin harvesting by carefully pinching off the stem or use secateurs if you like. The difference between a green and ripe chilli is about 6 weeks, so we suggest striking a balance.
TIP
If you can’t get enough of a particular chilli plant, in addition to saving the seed, tr cutting it back hard at the end of the season. In temperate zone or warmer, it can lie dormant during the winter and then resprout bigger and bigger the next warm season.
